Making the Elgin Grade 387

The Elgin grade 387 watch is a 17 jewel, 16 size pocketwatch. This one is serial number 19955308, made in 1916, featuring an unusual (and flashy) gold dial and a 20 year gold case. This size is large, but smaller than then big and heavy railroad-style 18 size watches. It's a practical and professional style. Being a 17 jewel model, this example would have been in a more expensive price range.

Here's the disassembly process...

Here the case back has been removed. It simply unscrews. Note the micro regulator and polished screws holding the gold jewel bushings.

This movement has two upper plates, level with the balance bridge.

Here the balance bridge and balance assembly have been removed. It's possible to see the ruby palet jewels.

And now the fork is removed.

Removing the exposed wheels and the upper plates exposes the train.

This watch features a polished steel escape wheel.

Here we can see the keyless works (the winding and setting mechanism).

Note the decorative finish applied the the lower plate, even where it's covered by the upper plates.

Here's all the parts. Note that this watch also includes a dust cover, the ring on the right side of the image. This goes around the movement maoking it harder to get dirt into the works, between the plates.

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More About Elgin Watches

The Elgin National Watch Company and other information

Elgin watches restored, cleaned and serviced

Regarding the care and cleaning of pocketwatches

Elgin watch mini-FAQ

Frequently asked questions